India for a Day

As expats, our girls attend a private, international school.  Although it would have been interesting to have them attend public, Danish school (where they would be immersed in the Danish language) it just wasn’t logical for us.  The academic school system in Denmark is different enough from the US, that if we were to move back in a few years, they would most likely be behind academically.   

We have found that the benefits of an International school are many.  First and foremost, the fact that it is, well…international.  Their teachers are Icelandic, Croatian, Indian, Russian and Egyptian…their friends are Italian, Portuguese, Danish, Norwegian, Irish, Polish…the list goes on and on.  We are the only Americans.  They are learning so much about the world just by the people they are surrounded by.  This month, as the curriculum focuses on “Cultures from Around the World”, we were treated to an entire day based on the culture of India, complete with Bollywood dance, Indian violin,traditional street food (yum!) saris, bindis and mehndi (henna tatoos). 

What fun!  It made me want to go back to India all over again.

 

 

We learned that traditionally, mehndi are done on the palm, but once the first child chose to have it done on the back of the hand, most of the others followed.

You know I wasn’t going to miss out on this action. Here is my mehndi,

Before:

And after:

Hosting Copenhagen with Kids

Copenhagen had been our home for 10 months before we welcomed our first visitors.  We have practically been begging people to come.  Mainly because we miss them, but also because we want to show them the city we have grown to love.  Accepting an offer of a free guest room in a charming, central part of this Scandinavian city (one of the 5 most expensive in the world) seems like a no-brainer to me…but refraining from travel opportunities has never been my strong point.  Lucky for us, my brother-in-law and his family feel the same way.  They jumped at the chance to come and we couldn’t have been more excited.  Brothers, “sisters” and cousins reunited for a 10-day whirlwind of our home-away-from-home.

Since moving here, we’ve done a few touristy things, but mostly we enjoy being (or pretending to be) locals in our adoptive city.  Graced by good weather and with four lively kids in our group, we skipped museums and the inside of castles and churches.  Copenhagen has so much to offer and I know we probably missed a few key historical attractions, but without an itinerary or much of a plan, we hope that we gave our guests a good mix of touristy sites and local flavor.

Arrival Day:  Hallernes Smørbrød lunch, a walk along the lakes, Paradis ice-cream and a trip to our local park.

Day 2: More beautiful weather called for a beach day in Hellerup.  We had lunch at OVSA along the harbor, followed by a bike ride through shady residential streets – and a ride-by of the girls’ school (which they were happily not attending while family was in town).

Day 3: Morning at Ørstedsparken and the Hacienda café.  (I love the kid park / café combination.  It really is a win-win.)  That afternoon we grabbed hotdogs from a street vendor and met friends in Kongens Have (The King’s Garden outside Rosenborg Slot) for a picturesque picnic.  The kids kicked a soccer ball around, played Frisbee, picked daisies and made forts in the rhododendron bushes.

Day 4: Canal Tour from Nyhavn Pier.  Yes, it’s touristy and the tour conductor tells a few jokes that are not very funny, but it is a great overview of the city.  Most of the city’s best sites can be seen from the water.  And who doesn’t enjoy being on a boat on a sunny day?

That evening we hired a babysitter and went out to celebrate Brett’s little brother’s birthday at Toldboden, followed by a walk through the Kastellet at sunset.  Having the guys ride us there in the Christiania bikes was half the fun!

 

Day 5:  We took a bit of a breather on this chilly, sunny Sunday, with a bike ride to Torvehallerne market to meet friends for pizza, coffee and cupcakes.  An impromptu afternoon gathering in our courtyard went well-into the evening, with a grilled fish dinner.  Wine and snacks kept us warm, while the kids rode bikes around in circles.

Day 6:  A trip to Copenhagen with kids must include a day at Tivoli Gardens.  Every time we go I find it more enjoyable than the last – and with all the Spring flowers in bloom and some extra little-ones in tow, this time was no exception.

 

 

Day 7 & 8: On a whim, we rented cars and drove across the bridge to Southern Sweden (Skåne) – A separate post on this will be coming soon.

Day 9:  On their last full day in Copenhagen, we realized that something was missing…a walk down Strøget (the world’s longest pedestrian street – and a great place to shop and see historic buildings).  And although the canal tour took us through Christianhavn, it seemed like a better view of that area was in order.

Typical for Denmark, we had all kinds of weather while our guest were here – warm sun, cold wind, a bit of overcast.  Their last day in Denmark brought warm rain.  Perfect for a lunch break at Baresso Coffee.

Day 10:  Departure day for our guests.  As their plane took off that afternoon, our apartment grew very…very quiet.  We couldn’t escape the teary goodbyes, but the memories we made during these days together are vivid in our minds.

For the past 10 days, we were essentially on vacation too.  So, thank you Copenhagen – for being a wonderful host to our guests and giving us yet another great stay-cation.

~~~~~  ~~~~~  ~~~~~  ~~~~~  ~~~~~

Super moon over Copenhagen…

¤ Thanks to my sis-in-law for sharing some of her wonderful pictures with me.

No Place Like Home

I have lived on multiple continents, studied abroad and have traveled to dozens of countries.  Yet, this was a first.  It was the first time I have lived in a foreign country and returned home for a visit.  All the other times I have been away, I returned knowing that I was there to stay (at least for a while).  Brett had been back twice for work, but it had been 10 months since the girls and I had crossed the ocean to begin a new life in Denmark.  Suddenly, there we were…back in Seattle.

I am familiar with reverse culture shock, so walking into Whole Foods and standing in front of the yogurt aisle, in complete awe of the sheer variety, was not a big surprise.  The world around me was loud, as I became acutely aware of the English language.  I withdrew money, ordered coffee and picked up medicine, all from the comfort of my car.  I made casual conversation with store clerks and returned things without a receipt.  I ordered a double, tall, split-shot, extra hot, caramel macchiato and the barista didn’t flinch.  Yep, we were back.

We rode ferries across Puget Sound in search of a mini-adventure and yummy crepes.  We walked along drift wood and collected shells.  We admired newly budding cherry blossoms, snowy mountain ranges and lush evergreens.

We reconnected, through hugs and birthdays celebrations, at Easter gatherings, over glasses of wine and around dinner tables with friends and family…

The days in Seattle felt fun and familiar, like we had never left.  Yet, I wondered what the girls were thinking.  How did it feel for them to see our old house, eat familiar foods and see so many familiar faces?  When I was my daughter’s age, we moved from New Jersey to Peru and I wasn’t happy about it.  Looking back, I cherish that time in my life and have wonderful memories of being there.  But I suspect that at the time, it would have felt like a cruel joke to be offered the opportunity to go back to New Jersey for a “visit”.

Before we left, other expat parents told us that the girls would likely go through the adjustment of moving, all over again, once we returned to Europe.  I don’t know if it has to do with age or personality, but the 4-years-old transition seemed to go without a hitch, but in the case of a certain 6-year-old, they were right.  Her world is getting bigger and when you have to travel across an ocean for a play-date, you suddenly realize how big it really is!  Jet-lag, combined with confusion and homesickness did not make for the happiest days upon our return to Denmark.  Comforting my girl, I saw myself in her tear-filled eyes…skeptical of change and unconvinced of the value that adults kept saying this experience was worth.

Parents often talk about how well children adjust to new situations – sometimes with more ease than adults.  We often say they are tough, resilient and able to adapt. I find this to be true, but they are not inhuman and their emotions are raw and real.

Seeing her sad, I had to remind myself why we did this, which wasn’t hard to do, because in those days, I could see that this experience has already added value.  She loves with her whole heart and does not take thing - or especially people - for granted.  It has also strengthened our family’s bond.  Our little family-of-four provided her with the love and support she needed to feel safe and secure.  (Good sleep, a trip to Tivoli and a birthday celebration at school, full of lots of love and attention helped too.)

Thankfully, it didn’t take long for her to settled back in to life in Copenhagen – she is currently counting-down the days until her cousins arrive.  She can’t wait to show them her “home away from home”.

Jetlag: Sleepless from Seattle

This space is mostly about a family living life abroad and the joys of traveling with children.  But anyone who has done it, knows that there are a few obstacles to overcome when you decide to tote little-ones (or yourself, for that matter) halfway around the world.  Namely, obstacle numero uno: jetlag.  It is a topic I get asked about a lot – people seem to fear having kids go through jetlag.  I won’t sugar-coat it too much, but don’t let jetlag stop you from traveling internationally with your kids.  Really, it’s not that bad….(as I yawn and refill my coffee cup).

The Good News

You might get to enjoy a night tour of the Eiffel Tower or a late dinner with chipper kids who would normally be falling apart at that hour.  (Instead they’ll just fall apart later.)  Besides, your kids will not be the only ones going through jetlag.  You will have the pleasure of experiencing it yourself, so when they wake up at 2am, you’ll likely be wide awake and ready to deal with it.

Not helpful?  Okay, fine – here are a few tips that might be.

Set Your Clock

This is one that most kids will have trouble with if they can’t tell time.  As adults, our minds can play tricks on us, and although your body is telling you you’re tired, by looking at your watch, your mind will start to believe otherwise.  So, at the beginning of the flight, set your clock to the local time of your destination.  If you wait to set it when you get there, the shock factor sets in.  I know it can’t be helped, but try not to constantly think about what time it is at your starting destination.  Just set your clock and move on.

A Stiff Neck

If you are like me, sleeping on a plane is a joke.  I envy the sitting-up snoozers around me (including my husband).  But if you can sleep on the plane, do it…especially if you are going to arrive at your destination in the morning hours.  Kids seem to have an easier time with this since they can curl up in the seat and are accustomed to falling asleep in a car seat or stroller.  Some things that might help you or your kids – an eye mask, a neck pillow and melatonin.  I was told by our doctor that my kids could take 1 mg of melatonin.  I buy the kind that dissolves in your mouth.  Don’t forget to bring something familiar for your child to sleep with.  Plus, a stuffed friend might come in handy when those airplane headsets don’t fit.

There is no Such Thing as a Power-nap

Every rookie traveler has made the same mistake.  You get off the plane, head to your hotel room and take a nap.  After all, you deserve it after the long, uncomfortable flight, right?  Maybe, but you won’t be doing yourself any favors.  There is no such thing as a power-nap when your body thinks it is 3am.  You will sleep, and you will sleep HARD, and not want to get up.  Push through the day as best you can and get to bed at a normal hour.  This is the hardest one for kids.  If you can, spend time outdoors and follow your regular schedule as closely as possible.  If your child normally takes an afternoon nap, let them, but only allow them to sleep for a couple hours (or however-long they normally sleep for) and know that waking them up will be difficult.  This might be a time when bribery is not such a bad thing.  We usually wake the girls up with an offer of chocolate milk, juice or ice-cream waiting for them.  *Note: this back-fired on us once when we took 2 stroller-sleeping kids to a small, quaint chalet in Iceland and decided to wake them up after ordering chocolate-covered waffles.  The scene that ensued was not pretty.  But we laugh about it now.

Eat Light and Use Caffeine to Your Advantage

Many people experience a bit of an upset stomach when they travel.  Although this can be due to experiencing new foods or a sensitivity to the water, it can also be due to the fact that your stomach is jetlagged too.  You might not feel hungry at normal meal times as your body adjusts.  My kids normally don’t eat big meals, but when they are jetlagged they hardly want to eat at all.  Serve meals and snacks at normal times and avoid midnight snacks, as this will make the adjustment take longer.  Like using melatonin as a natural sleep enhancer, I use caffeine to help push me through the day.

Planning

Adjusting to jetlag is different depending on which direction you travel.  East to west, tends to be a little easier.  Especially if you arrive at your destination in the evening since you’ll only have a few hours to get through until bed time – although you’ll still wake up much too early.  If possible, take a melatonin and go back to sleep and force yourself up at a normal hour.

When traveling west to east and arriving at your destination in the morning, it seems to take a little longer to adjust.  Plan your trip so you don’t have a lot going on in the first few days.  We once (pre-kids) flew from the US to England and attended a wedding the evening we arrived.  Bad move.  Lesson learned.

Back on Track

Right now, the girls are going to school and are dead tired when they get home.  I try my very best to keep them awake until bed time by spoiling them with a movie during dinner, giving them a little sugar, letting them stay in the bath longer, etc.  My oldest has been having very vivid dreams.  That, plus jetlag have been waking her up in the middle of the night.  Last night we gave her a melatonin at 2 am and that seemed to do the trick and they both slept until 7am.

Day 3 and I think we are getting back on track.  Our bodies are amazing.  It should only take 3-5 days to adjust and is it worth it?  Always.  We had a wonderful time visiting friends and family back home.  Next time (when I’m not so tired) I’ll share photos from our 3 week trip to Seattle.

The First Day of Spring?

I believe the official first day of Spring comes around March 20th, but we have had numerous days here in Copenhagen which we have declared as “the first day of Spring!”  Today is one of them.  There are signs everywhere.  Here are some signs that winter may be behind us.

• Kids Requesting not to wear their “flyverdragt”.
• Keeping the cover of our Christiania bike open more than closed.
• Ripping off hats and gloves while out on a run.
• More cafes bringing tables and chairs outside.
• People hanging out of apartment windows, in order to wash the windows from the outside (thinking I soon need to risk my life and do that same).
• School kids out on walks and finding mine playing out on the playground every time I pick them up lately.
• Morning coffee (and knitting) on the balcony.
• Spending our weekends exploring, with a guidebook in our bike basket.
• Open windows!  I’d like to take this moment to thank the accordion player outside, who makes our apartment feel like a Parisian café each day, with his romantic little tunes.
• Flowers and Sun, sun and more sun.

Some images to prove my theory.

I don’t know if it was typical, or if Copenhagen experienced an unusually dry winter, but being a Seattle girl, I can’t believe how little it rained here in the winter months.  On the flip side, I was equally surprised by how much in did rain last August!  So, we shall see.  Mother Nature is full of surprises, but the beginning of Spring is one of her best gifts.  Let the world awaken!  We are ready!

Fastelavn

Like most Carnival celebrations, Fastelavn is celebrated on the Sunday before Ash Wednesday…leading up to Lent.  But like many things in modern-day Denmark, there is less of a religious connection these days.  Also known as Nordic Halloween, Fastelavn is a time for children to dress up in costumes and play games.

What would a Danish celebration be without a traditional Danish pastry? 

Enter the Fastelavnsbolle (Carnival Buns).  Yum.

There is also the traditional game of Slå katten af tønden (hit the cat out of the barrel) which is basically a piñata with (what my daughters would tell you is) a cruel twist.  A tønden is a barrel, made of wood and very difficult to open.  Historically, there was a real black cat in the barrel, and beating the barrel was superstitiously considered a protection against evil.  These days, no cat; just candy, oranges and goodie bags.

Emmery’s, one of our favorite bakeries in Copenhagen, hosted a Fastelavn party with free juice and Fastelavnsbolle for the kids and a game of Slå katten af tønden.  They hung up a barrel, full of candy, and all the kids took turns hitting it with a stick.  This went on for quite some time and that barrel remained sturdy.

I am rather embarrassed to say, that the two little American children in the line (our kids) lost patience with this game rather quickly.  The Danish children showed true determination when it came to hitting that barrel over and over again. 

Delaying gratification: one of the many things I hope my kids will learn from the Danes.

However…even the Danes have waning tolerance for a stubborn barrel.  Eventually, Brett and some of the other dads in the group were kindly asked to give the barrel a good whack.

Eventually, by the hands of a little girl dressed as Minnie Mouse, the barrel fell to the ground, treats were revealed and chaos ensued.

A few days later, the girls got to do this all over again at school.  I didn’t witness it a second time, but am told that the barrel was much quicker to fall.  So perhaps not all barrels are created equally?  But we are new to this, so who knows?

Stay-cation in Copenhagen

We tossed around many ideas of what to do during the mid-February winter break.  The girls would have a week off school, there would be no Danish classes and Brett was prepared to take a few days off work.  We talked about a ski trip, a beach trip, a Scandinavian island trip, a drive to Germany…it all sounded lovely.  But in the end, we decided to stay in Copenhagen.  After all, this has been our “home” for 7 months and there is so much we still haven’t seen.

We thought that two little girls, who are always playing princess, might like to explore a real castle.  They did.  So, we biked over to Rosenborg Slot, less than 10 minutes from home.

Built in 1606 as a country summer house for King Christian IV, this Dutch Renaissance style  castle is just the right size for small, wandering feet.  We had walked around the castle grounds late last summer, but never went inside, so we figured it was time for the full tour.

I had just finished reading Rose Tremain’s, Music and Silence, a novel set in seventeenth-century Denmark.  So that added a bit of mystique for me.   We meandered through each room with a little guided map, as Brett and stumbled to answer questions from wee voices asking, “what’s a lacquer cabinet?…what’s a chamber?…where is the dungeon?”  They loved the treasury full of jewels and crowns.  The gardens surrounding the castle are vast and offer a great place for kids to play and explore.

 

Denmark takes a lot of pride in its Royal History, however, perhaps not as much as it does in being the creators of the colorful, little, interlocking bricks, known as LEGO.  We spent a day at the annual Lego World celebration.   The Bella Center was full of more legos than I have ever seen in my life.  (Note: We haven’t been to LEGOLAND yet.)

The newest introduction: Girly Legos.  Not sure what we think of these.  Basically, they are pink bricks (and other various “girl colors”) that come with princess figures, white horses and castle spires.  The girls did really enjoy playing with them, however they never took issue with playing with “boy colored” LEGOS.  When the “girl” LEGOS were presented, they seemed more interested in playing with the figures and much less interest in building.  Matea spent a great deal of time setting up tiny beds for Cinderella and Snow White and I’m not sure she ever snapped two bricks together.  Hmmm…

Look!  It’s a Lego Nyhavn!

We could have spent all day at this place and never seen all there was to offer.  Here’s a small taste.

 

 

 

As a little bonus to our stay-cation, Brett took a day off work while the girls were back in school.  This gave us an afternoon to explore without worrying about anyone whining about tired feet, cold hands and hungry bellies.

Just our four feet ambling along on the cobblestone brought back many memories of our carefree, pre-kid, travel days.  Although…our bellies tend to get hungry too.  So, we had lunch at Huks Fluks in the beautiful Gråbrødretorv square.  Hello, charming, unsuspecting square of colorful buildings that date back hundreds of years.  We are happy to have found you!

The fact that we’ve lived here for 7 months and not yet climbed the Rundetaarn (Round Tower), is surprising.  On our past travels to European cities, we always tried to find a high observation point.  Let’s just say we have climbed countless spiral staircases in our days.  Not only does it usually offer the best view of the city, but it’s a great way to get your bearings in a new place.

The Rundetaarn was built as an observatory in 1642 by King Christian lV.   We have walked past it numerous times with the girls and suspected the climb might be tough for them.  In hindsight, they probably would have been fine with the gradual climb.

As we looked out at the skyline of turrets, spires and domes, it felt, at first, like the many times we’ve gazed out at the horizon of an unfamiliar city.  But suddenly, it wasn’t so unfamiliar.  We found ourselves pointing to buildings, squares and churches we recognized.  We were able to separate neighborhoods, name streets and identify the bridge leading to Sweden.

And off in the distance, just a few streets away, we pointed to our very own landmark.

Home.

Better link…

Sorry to all the email subscribers.  The previous post had a bad link.  Here is the correct one.

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Winter’s Curtain Call…

The latest from us, brought to you once again via Shared Threads.

A Little Snow in Copenhagen

It has snowed on-and-off for the past 2 days, but nothing is sticking to the ground.  Today, huge fluffy flakes fell and everything was dusted white for a short time.  By evening it was gone.